It might seem a little scary cutting the branches off your trees but it’s so healthy for growth. Transplanting might become necessary, though it can be a little tricky. Read below my guide on what I do when we need to do some pruning and transplanting trees in either our landscape or garden.
Pruning Trees
Pruning maintains tree health, shape, and safety by removing dead, damaged, or overgrown branches. Here’s a concise guide:
Timing
Most trees: Late winter or early spring (dormant season) for faster healing and less stress.
Spring-flowering trees: After blooming to preserve flowers.
Evergreens: Early spring or late summer – avoid late fall to prevent winter damage (cooler climates).
Check species-specific needs (e.g., fruit trees with new buds).
Check your planting zone!
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Tools
Hand pruners (trim branches that are <1 inch thick).
Loppers (trim branches that are 1-2 inch thick).
Pruning saw (trim larger branches).
Pole pruner (trim high branches).
Sterilize tools with alcohol to prevent disease spread.
Techniques
• Remove: Dead, diseased, crossing, or rubbing branches.
• Cut: Make clean cuts just outside the branch collar (swollen area near trunk). Avoid leaving stubs.
• Thinning: Remove select branches to improve light and air flow.
• Heading: Shorten branches to encourage bushier growth.
*Don’t remove more than 25% of a tree’s canopy in one season to avoid stress.
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Safety
• Wear gloves or long sleeves to prevent branch/thorn scratching. Safety glasses and sturdy shoes will come in handy as well.
• For large trees or high branches, hire a certified arborist. My husband has rented scissor lifts before to trim some of our big oak trees.
• Avoid pruning near power lines—contact the professionals.
Great Tutorials
Epic Gardening has some great articles on pruning and transplanting different types of trees.
Transplanting Trees
Transplanting moves a tree to a new location, requiring careful planning to minimize shock.
Timing
• It’s best to do transplanting in early spring or late fall when trees are dormant.
• Avoid hot, dry periods to reduce stress.
Preparation
• Choose a site: Ensure proper soil, sunlight, and space for the tree’s mature size.
• Dig the new hole: 2-3 times wider than the root ball, same depth. Loosen soil.
• Water: Hydrate the tree a day before digging.
Digging The Tree
Mark a circle around the tree (1 foot of diameter per inch of trunk diameter).
Dig a trench outside the circle, keeping the root ball intact (10-12 inches deep for small trees).
Wrap the root ball in burlap to secure soil and roots (optional).
Moving and Planting
Lift the tree by the root ball, not the trunk, to avoid damage.
Place in the new hole, ensuring the root flare (where roots meet trunk) is at ground level.
Backfill with native soil, tamp gently, and water thoroughly. I water twice a day until I start seeing growth. If a tree is on our irrigation, I’m not too concerned after the initial watering. Our irrigation is set to come on 3 times a week.
• Mulch 2-3 inches around the base, keeping it away from the trunk. This will allow the mulch to not smother the roots. This is optional at transplanting but I usually add it once the tree starts growing back.
Aftercare
• Water deeply, weekly (1-2 inches) for the first year, adjusting for rainfall. As I stated above, if you have irrigation, this should suffice, depending on how many days you have it running.
• Stake only if the tree is unstable; remove stakes after 1-2 years. We always stake smaller trees. It not only supports the tree but it also protects it from when we mow or if our dogs go near the tree.
• I add a good organic fertilizer right when we transplant and will add more while it’s sprouting new growth.
• Monitor for signs of stress (wilting, yellowing) and prune lightly if needed. Certain trees you’ll see the leaves turn brown and eventually will fall off. That’s normal. Scraping gently on a branch, check to see if it’s green. If yes, it’s still alive. Keep checking different branches to make sure until you start to see new growth.
New Growth
Depending on the tree, you should start seeing new leaves grow back within 30 days of transplanting your tree. Don’t panic if you don’t. See my tip above on how to check to make sure your tree is still alive. Some trees go under stress during a transplant. Make sure you are watering and checking on it daily. Once the tree starts to grow leaves again, it will grow fast.
Tips For Success On Pruning and Transplanting Trees
Species-Specific Needs: Research your tree (e.g., oaks need deep watering post-transplant; fruit trees require specific pruning cuts).
Soil Testing: Check pH and drainage at the new site to match the tree’s needs.
Professional Help: For large or mature trees, consult an arborist/tree company to ensure proper handling.
Closing
I hope you found this guide helpful. From time to time, you might find yourself needing to transplant a tree. Don’t panic if it looks dead a few days after it was transplanted. Mine do too at times but the beauty is when the new growth starts coming. Same goes for pruning. It’s scary cutting a bunch of branches off but wait until you see how much fuller your tree will start growing. Once you get the hang of it, you will look forward to doing it every year. As gardeners, we must be patient in order to see the fruit of our labors. As you continue nurturing and maintaining your trees, you will reap what you have sown. It may take more time than expected but don’t give up!
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